GocHi Japanese Fusion Tapas — restaurant review — California
There’s something wild happening in Cupertino, the education-centric mecca for droll family life and ethnic fairs held in the duck-ruled pond/park because they don’t even have a Downtown to party in. Well, they’re all partying over at GocHi now.
I’ve heard about the horrendous wait for a table there. I’m not stupid; I do my research. I called for reservations early in the week and the friendly guy said they were completely booked for the next two weeks. That’s weekdays included. He suggested that we could try our luck and come in around their opening hour, since they always have a few tables reserved for walk-ins. So on Saturday night there were a few walk-ins ahead of us, but luck was definitely on our side as we were seated immediately, and not at the “bar counter” row where you’re facing a wall. We were even spared the harsh scolding like the woman in front of us haggled against: “we can’t seat you without reservations” to finally “we need the table in an hour so you must leave then!” We weren’t even pressured to fast-forward feasting like we expected, after hearing tales about tactless timepiece-tapping waitstaff.
If you can get a table, you’ll find that GocHi simultaneously serves and satisfies three purposes: Japanese 30-somethings toting toddlers and Bottegas, large groups of friends who want to get drunk and rowdy, and couples who want to play footsies in the table-cubbies cut into the floor. Yes, technically, you are sitting on the floor on a flat zabuton cushion, so be prepared for that. Also wear clean socks or scrub your feet because you need to remove your shoes here and there’s nothing appetizing about strangers’ toe jams.
To make up for the feet thing, GocHi proffers thoughtful artistic presentation crafted from quality ingredients. The tea they serve is actual matcha.. smooth and not bitter, even towards the remnant sediment part where I, in desperate efforts to procure every last drop, tipped the pot so much the lid flew off and clamorously breakdanced on the tabletop, and I felt the whole area stop silent and my face glow red. It was worth it though.
Clumsiness did not prevent me from enjoying the very thick, very buttery Hamachi Sashimi architecturally set upon triplet beds of seaweed salad (the good purplish and flat-leafed limu, not just the stringy green stuff that tastes like what a Petco aquarium smells like) and shiso leaves. Their wasabi is the actual ground horseradish root, not the preprepared powder or paste, so it wasn’t nearly as potent as we’re used to, and imparted a granular texture initially, which rapidly dissolved into the shoyu. These are just fun facts, since you won’t even need shoyu or wasabi for their fresh, tasty sashimi.
GocHi is known for their unique dishes; Japanese-style pizzas being frontrunners. Especially scrumptious is their Unagi Yanagawa Fusion Pizza (pictured above right) with succulent eel chunks, chewy mushroom medley, oozing cheddar and mozzarella cheese, extra soft tofu cubes, salty shredded nori, sweet caramelized and tangy green onions floating atop a thin, crisp, wafer crust. One caveat is that the crust is so thin that it quickly soaks up the delectable salty-sweet unagi sauce and oil (very oily), forcing you to flex your least graceful creative-eating techniques. Pizza with chopsticks or fingers… aaaaugh, neither’s working, clumsy again.
I only wished to wield a spoon for GocHi’s Kani Cream Au Gratin, the ultimate comfort food. Although I prefer the sliced potato variety, this au gratin’s base was silky smooth with chunks of real crab and sweet yellow corn, all smothered in a thick layer of molten cheese. The crab was a bit too neutral in this dish and it was a little awkward eating mashed potatoes with chopsticks (only in concept, execution was just fine this time) but boy does it make you all feel warm and fuzzy.
You must must must try their Risotto Croquettes. Must. Even if you think risotto is overrated grain goop. The racquetball-sized flash-fried mounds (pictured above left) are chock full of mushrooms and melted mozzarella. The trio skims individual concentric reflecting pools of shiso pesto and tomato sauces like perfect little targets. The combination of earthy warmth encapsulated by an airy crispy shell welcomes the tart and acidic binding tinges of both sauces.
GocHi’s Tiramisu layers jolt-worthy coffee, spongy cake, potent rum, and rich marscapone (don’t you hate it when your tiramisu has cheapo versions of these?); abundantly sweats coffee and liquor. I’m on the lookout for their Green Tea Tiramisu, which substitutes one caffeinated device for another, topping it with a shower of brilliant mossy matcha dust. Their Green Tea Crème Brûlée is one of the best desserts I’ve sampled, and I don’t really like crème brûlée. It is so velvety and silky, but not nearly as rich or heavy as other restaurants’ design, with the signature crackly caramelized crust that was one notch past sweet and over into slightly burnt territory, allowing the contrast of textures and flavors and colors to pop. Perfection served with a cute teeny wooden spoon in a gorgeous amber shade that mimicked the color of the crust. I’d almost go so far as to say that a metal spoon would ruin future crème brûlées for me.
Another thing to note is that this Fusion place attracts Fusion people: some dressed to the nines to celebrate special occasions, and others in t-shirts and shorts and even loungewear. I’d say it’s pretty darn casual. There are private rooms in the back for larger parties (> 6), but there’s a cake cutting fee (~$2 per person!), so birthday beware. I hear their bathrooms are tidy and swanky. In order to keep it so, you must de-shoe and use their provided padded slippers. Oh, and be sure to hit up neighboring Gamba Karaoke to put that wallet-sniping sake to good use!
How truly magical it is to experience the powerful aesthetic of GocHi’s exotic cuisine in the heart of a city defined by potential intellect. Reservations recommended, dexterity optional.
GocHi Japanese Fusion Tapas
19980 Homestead Rd – Cupertino, CA – (408) 725-0542
HOURS: M-F 11:30a-1:30p, 6-10:30p; Sat 5:30-9:30p
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