Alan Wong’s Restaurant munchies review

by Kris   ⋅   June 30, 2007   ⋅   Comment now   ⋅    RSS

Located conveniently (or maybe not so conveniently) on South King Street, in an unassuming narrow three-story office-type tenement, Alan Wong’s dining room overlooks lush Manoa Valley scenery that’s unfortunately blocked by a bunch of apartment buildings and condos, dammit (just kidding, I love the skyline… “Honolulu city liiiights”). This is a big tip: reserve lanai seats, enjoy the green mountain glimpse.

Another reason you might want to sit outside is the noise. Although I didn’t notice it (um, I’m in California now where diners’ decibel levels rival that of a 747), the clatter and chatter was a thorn of contention in someone’s lament I read. I also read that Gourmet Magazine named Alan Wong’s Restaurant a flattering #8 of the nation’s Top 50 Restaurants and Chef Wong earned the James Beard award. So good eats guaranteed, right? Well, yes and no. What about excellent unbiased service? Yes and no.

We had been running around all day and I forgot my nice pants at the hotel room way the heck out on the other side of the island at the Ko’olina Beach Club (I got a good deal; I’m not paying $400/night) and so I walked into this “business casual” place with jeans. I’m not saying the hostess was snooty, maybe I’m saying that all hostesses are snooty (in Palo Alto I was hired as a hostess when just applying for a 2nd job waitress position just to experience it –I’d never been a waitress– and during training they told me to dial down the perkiness so I quit before my first day), but she seemed a tad displeased at my attire. Or maybe it was an ageist thing that I get a lot because I look all of fifteen. The table waitstaff (as a collective team) made up for it, courteous and attentive; the waiter even brandished his own Alan Wong business cards which was a little unsettling (the term career waiter comes to mind) yet proved they only hire professionals. Hint: put a little extra tip money into your pressed khakis.

I hadn’t eaten ‘opihi (Hawaiian limpet) in a few years, so it was a shock to see sad wimpy ones that weren’t even an inch in diameter. I heard that it’s only shipped from Moloka’i and some parts of West Mau’i now. Well, Alan Wong doesn’t care about the overharvesting ban, he has a cute little appetizer called the “‘opihi shooter” (replaced with an oyster shooter when they feel like obeying the law) which is a small narrow glass tube filled with salty “tomato water” which is reminiscent of brackish tidepool water, uh in a good way. There’s a sliver of tart grape tomato, a medley of green fern-ish limu seaweeds, sour kalamata, and of course, the teeny little limpet. I totally sucked at sucking this down successfully, as you’re supposed to push everything to the top with a swizzle stick and gulp rapidly. Oh, but this was so not as easy as beer “gunning” like in college. Beer doesn’t have veggies in it. Like a doof, I had only succeeded in wedging the precious ‘opihi to the bottom of the tube. The lightning speed attentive wait staff noticed immediately, zipping over to help get it “unstuck”. After all that trouble, I barely even noticed I downed the ‘opihi! I could’ve very well swallowed it whole, it was so tiny! I grew up on Big Island ‘alinalina ‘opihi (the beeg yellow ones) that my dad or his friends would risk their lives to pluck from the ocean cliffs, and the danger factor maybe makes it taste better. Alan Wong’s was the makaiauli (green) kind I think, which is a third the size of the ‘alinalina and a tougher chew.

Next time we go we are ordering appetizers only. With delicious delights such as their famous “Poki[sic]-Pines” (ahi poke with avocado and won ton crisp strip spines) and “Hot California Rolls” with baked lobster mousse replacing rice, who needs entrées? Besides, I was not impressed with my meal, opakapaka (Hawaiian pink snapper) hidden within a too-thick mochi mucosa. I thought of Species. I liked how moist the “sac” kept the fish, but I don’t understand why it was so terribly oily because it wasn’t crisp. It was like greasy bubble gum gobs. I thought I might choke. It sat atop nametake mushroom risotto that was a bit too mushy, but I am a bit of a risotto snob that only Absinthe’s quells. Chris had better luck with the Furikake Salmon with ochazuke risotto which the server did his nifty green tea pour presentation.

The cheesecake sampler included mini cubes of a vibrant violet Okinawan sweet potato version, vanilla with blueberry garnish, toasted coconut with strawberry ‘n yuzu garnish, kona coffee. The sweet potato came with a small dollop of haupia sorbet propped up on a banana slice and underripe starfruit. Pretty cute.

Overall, I left wondering why Alan Wong’s was such a highly ranked restaurant. It’s tops for creativity and impressive homegrown ingredients, but the textures were funky and most of it was just bland. I didn’t finish my dinner and that is a rare moment let me tell you. If they were ranking it for the ambience, that’s strange because its decor is like an aunt’s living room with lots of beige and too much furniture. I just expect more for the price and the hype.

Alan Wong’s Restaurant [HAWAIIAN REGIONAL][$$$$]
(808) 969-2526 - 1857 S. King Street, Ste 3 - Honolulu, HI

HOURS:
Dinner: Daily 5pm-10pm

About the Author:

Kris Kobayashi-Nelson is an avid food adventurist who has tried everything from jellyfish to sea cucumber to chicken gizzards. She loved liver and onions with ketchup and cayenne pepper ice cream as a kid. She does not like chocolate.