La Mer at the Halekulani // restaurant review // Hawai’i

by Kris   ⋅   February 5, 2007   ⋅   Comment now   ⋅    RSS

La Mer is one of the most elegant restaurants I’ve been to, and I think that’s actually the best part about it. Don’t get me wrong, the food is nice and the waiters hover attentively to make sure they brush every single crumb before it even flitters to the 800-count tablecloth, but you’ll certainly remember the atmosphere. From the complimentary champagne and lobster amuse bouche to the free desserts, La Mer treats you like royalty. The wait staff is jovial and unobtrusive even though they are there at your side every five minutes to remove any used and unused platters and flatware as you cycle through the courses. The hostess even shifted seating arrangements so that we would be able to view the ocean, diamond head crater and the live musicians downstairs, a table away from the “big ticket view” table that was already reserved. She did it all with a forced fake-smile, but regardless, it was a very nice table and we didn’t even ask to be “upgraded”.

Okay so on to the food. It’s French cuisine, which unfortunately has been a hit-or-miss experience for me. There are a few places in the City that Chris and I dined at with friends that were pretty bland actually, some with microscopic portions or even overcooked soggy veggies. I know the whole French food experience is to enjoy the natural taste of the food and how appalled they are that Americans smother their steaks with ketchup, but I’m unsure of terrifyingly unseasoned fare. It reminds me of how I cooked in High School when I went through an “I abhor salt” phase so everything I made probably tasted like cardboard to my uncomfortable but way too polite guests. Well, I was hoping that since La Mer was Hawai’i’s only five-diamond restaurant, the experience would be different.

Maybe fully French food isn’t my thing, or maybe I see more value in a huge hulking chunk of fish for my entree. While there is no argument that La Mer’s fare is delicious and light with ultra fresh ingredients in a spectacular presentation, I kept wondering why I had just plain mashed potatoes and if that was an appropriate pairing for fish. Remember, I’m no culinary expert, I’m just being honest with my tastebuds.

Ignoring their choice of Zaph Chancery-like menu font, I chose the Symphony of Hamachi with Pistachio, Shrimp on Black Risotto and Scallops with Fine Ratatouille served with a Saffron Sauce. It was prettily presented, arranged in sparse little clusters on the pristine plate. Believe me, the title of the dish is almost longer than the food will last you. The aforementioned mashed potatoes were hovering at the top of the plate, garnished with a diaphanous perfectly browned potato-chip fan. The scallops were plump and perfect. Hamachi (Japanese Amberjack or yellowtail) is one of my favorites, but I prefer it raw. When it is cooked, I miss the rich almost buttery texture, mild taste, the pinkish hue of the flesh.

Chris had the Roasted Chilean Sea Bass on Alsatian Choucroute, with Opakapaka Sausage and Parsley Potatoes accompanied by a Juniper Berry Mustard Sauce. The Opakapaka is the Hawaiian Pink Snapper that’s mild in taste and texture and is interchangeable with Mahimahi. Basically, it is fish that doesn’t taste fishy. It is interesting to create a fish sausage, and it was cutely layered with the potato rounds to create visual interest. The problem was that it was difficult to distinguish between the potato and the sausage at first taste.

The desserts were cute little arrangements as well, as we sampled the Symphonie La Mer, a combination of the posh eatery’s finest confections including a chocolate ganache petit torte and a form cake with a haupia (Hawaiian coconut pudding) ice cream dollop housed under a Buckminster Fuller worthy geodesic dome fabricated from cooled caramel strands.

In addition, they provided complimentary choco bonbons and jelly-fied treats (one with golden “La Mer” deco and one with a humble message from chef Yves Garnier, also scribed in edible gold). The chef also sent us complimentary tri-colored/flavored french style macarons (pink, green, choco), which I am so sorry if I’m offending a european cookie legacy, but they are dry, almost biscotti-like in texture, airy and crumbly, with no real taste (therefore I labeled them as “pink” or “green” taste, which I guessed were strawberry and green tea, but actually they were raspberry and pistachio).

This is a place where you’d be sure to feel sympathy for the dishwashing crew, as they replaced every single utensil and dish and glass even if you just looked at it. I adored their abstract swirly almost Tord Boontje coral and ivory signature dinnerware and the safety-glass-thick square tier that cradled the macarons.

La Mer is located in Waikiki in the Halekulani hotel where the concierge will even escort you all the way to the restaurant, unless I probably just looked that flighty and he was worried I’d get lost (we were the youngest couple there). While the food wasn’t exactly for me, and Waikiki is crowded beyond bearable, the service and ocean view alone would make me return with a smile almost as wide as the waiter’s.

La Mer
Kalia Road, Honolulu HI - (808) 923-2311
HOURS: 6p to 10p
*Long-sleeved collared shirt or jacket required for gentlemen

About the Author:

Kris Kobayashi-Nelson has zero cavities and has had dentists place bets against her. Although she’s not into French food, one of her favorite restaurants is the French California fusion Hayes Valley darling Absinthe.

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